Pet First Aid Essentials 2: How to Know if It's a Medical Emergency

Just like with other things in life, accidents and emergencies can happen to anyone. Many different situations can arise, but it is important for all pet owners to know the basics before heading to the veterinary hospital. The very first step is to recognize normal from abnormal. This can be done in just a couple of minutes and can help save your pet’s life.

If you suspect that your pet is in trouble, take a deep breath and follow these recommendations:

• Appraise the situation
• Remain calm – it may be emotionally taxing but you will be able to think more clearly if you remain calm.
• Be safe – remove yourself and your pet from further danger (ie. in the road)
• Can your pet walk or not?
• What happened? 
• Weakness or lethargy
• Vomiting
• Coughing
• Trauma
• Toxicity
• Seizure

It takes just a few seconds to appraise the situation and move on to the next step.

Evaluate the ABCs:

• Airway
• Breathing
• Circulation

While your pet is normal and healthy, it is a good idea to find out what your pet’s normal ‘vital signs’ are. You can do this at home or have your veterinarian help you.  Knowing your pet’s typical heart rate, temperature, etc. can help you determine when to act. 

Airway:

• Is it open or obstructed?
• Was your pet chewing on a toy and suddenly collapsed or started coughing or breathing heavy?
• Look inside the mouth – take care, don’t get bitten!
• If you suspect a choke, contact your veterinarian as soon as possible.
• Take note of your pet’s gum and tongue color (mucous membrane color)*
• Normal: pink, moist
• Abnormal: purple, blue, brick red, white, yellow, or brown. Call your veterinarian.

* If your pet has a pigmented tongue, mucous membrane color can be checked on the vulva or inner eyelid

Breathing:

• Is your pet breathing?
• How fast or how slowly?
• Is it normal?
• Normal Respiration (breathing) rate
• What is normal for your pet?
• 10-30 breaths per minute is average ‘normal’
• Panting = up to 200 breaths per minute
• Panting can be a sign of pain or respiratory distress 

Circulation:

• Is there a heartbeat or a pulse present?
• You can check for a pulse on the inside of the rear leg, where the thigh meets the body wall. Press down gently. You can have your veterinarian show you how to do this.
• Is the heart rate normal?
• Normal heart rates
• What is normal for your pet?
• Puppy under 1 year of age: 120-160 beats per minute
• Adult under 30 pounds: 100-140 beats per minute
• Greater than 30 pounds: 60-120 beats per minute
• Not uncommon for giant breeds like Great Danes to have a heart rate of 70 

Other basic assessment information:

Temperature:

• It is best to take a rectal temperature on all animals
• Pets with a fever may be especially lethargic
• Normal temperatures for cats and dogs
• 100-102.5 F

If your pet’s temperature is below 99 F or above 104 F, this is an EMERGENCY, please call your veterinarian!

Once you have made your basic assessment of the situation and checked the ABCs, call the veterinarian. If you have someone with you to help, they can get the vet on the phone while you make your assessment. With a little know-how and practice, you can assess your animal swiftly in less than a couple of minutes.

Having basic information about the situation and how your pet is doing is helpful to the veterinarian. He or she can use this information to help you figure out what to do next.  Many times he or she will give instructions on how to safely transport your pet and keep him or her stable en route to the hospital.

Moving your Pet in an Emergency    

It is best to have a second or even third person to help in these times. Some dogs are especially large and you may injure yourself or your pet further without extra help. Call your neighbor or family member if you can.  Also keep in mind:

• Always take care to PROTECT YOURSELF
• DOGS and CATS WILL BITE OUT OF FEAR OR PAIN
• Use a ‘slip leash’ from your first aid kit as a muzzle if necessary to prevent bites
• Cover a cat’s head with a towel to prevent bites
• Get assistance when lifting dogs over 50 pounds
• Handle your pet as little as possible
• Use a gentle touch
• Lie pet on its side, if possible
• Place on a hard surface for transport
• Cover pet’s body with a blanket
• Position head in alignment with the body
• Drive carefully!

Our next installment in this series will cover common emergency situations. This will give you a basic idea of what to look out for and how to act quickly and effectively. Stay tuned!

Resources-

American National Red Cross. Dog First Aid: Be Read Cross Ready. Safety Series Vol. 2. Staywell Co. 2008.

Mamatto, Bobbie. Pet First Aid: Cats and Dogs.  American Red Cross and the Humane Society of the United States.  Mosby 1997.

Pet First Aid Essentials: 1- Be Prepared!

Every home with a pet should have a first aid kit. This kit is easy to assemble and can be kept in an easy-to-reach location for those times of need. I’ve compiled a ‘shopping list’ that will provide everything you need for most situations. 

Supplies

First you will need to find something to store the first aid materials in. A book bag, cloth tote or plastic storage containers with a lid are good first aid kit receptacles. If you travel a lot with your pet, having the first aid kit in a small book bag may be easiest so you can ‘grab it and go’. 

The supplies that you get should be able to cover 1-2 pets. In reality, you should only have to use these items on one pet at a time. It is not very typical that all the pets in the household will need first aid care at the same time.

Most of these items can be purchased at your local drug store or ‘big-box’ store like Wal-mart:

• Absorbent compresses:  sterile gauze sponges
• Adhesive tape, such as athletic tape
• Antibiotic ointment
• You can purchase a general use ointment through your veterinarian.
• If you prefer to use a holistic product, try Seabuck Skin Relief rub-on stick
• Clean cloths (ripped up, old t-shirts are fine)
• Diphenhydramine (Benadryl)—ask your vet for dosing information
• Gloves (non-latex or latex)
• Hydrogen peroxide (check expiration date)—ask your vet for dosing information
• Muzzle or extra “slip leash”
• Extra leash—nylon “slip leash” is preferable
• Needle-nose pliers
• Rectal thermometer—plastic/digital
• Rubbing alcohol (isopropyl)
• Blunt-end scissors
• KY Jelly or Vaseline
• Sterile saline eye wash
• Tweezers
• One large ‘beach towel’
• One small ‘hand towel’
• One Sandwich-sized zip-top bag
• One Gallon-sized zip-top bag
• Wire cutters, especially if you take your dog fishing with you or to the beach

If your pet has a chronic health problem, such as diabetes, it is a good idea to include the following:

• 1-2 packets of HONEY- you can usually get 1-2 of these at your local Starbucks 
• good for diabetics, young puppies—if you suspect low blood sugar
• Oral anti-diarrheal gel (available through your veterinarian)

Most pet owners have their vet on speed-dial on their cell phone. However, it is a good idea to keep this contact information written down within the first aid kit. It happens too often that you don’t have access to your cell phone or it runs out of battery and whoops- what’s the vet’s number again?

Place this information into a zip-top bag, to keep the paper from getting wet:

• Veterinarian’s contact information
• Address
• Phone number
• 24-hour emergency veterinary information
• Address
• Phone number
• Copy of each pet’s current Rabies vaccination certificate
• If you have to evacuate your home due to a natural disaster (wildfire, flood, hurricane, etc) – TAKE THE PET FIRST AID KIT WITH YOU! 
• Most emergency shelters that accept pets WILL NOT admit your pet without proof of rabies vaccination.
• Most people put the rabies tag on their pet’s collar as proof of vaccination, but remember that collars can become lost. 
• Copy of your pet’s medical record
• If you are taking your pet on vacation and he or she has a chronic health condition, it is a good idea to have a copy of the medical record with you in the first aid kit. This can contain valuable information that can help a new veterinarian in the event of an emergency.

In the next article in this series, I will discuss how you can use this handy first aid kit for common health issues you face at home.  Your action and education can help save your pet’s life!

Sources:

• American National Red Cross. Dog First Aid: Be Read Cross Ready. Safety Series Vol. 2. Staywell Co. 2008. 
• Mamatto, Bobbie. Pet First Aid: Cats and Dogs.  American Red Cross and the Humane Society of the United States.  Mosby 1997.

Pet Hot Spots- The Basics Every Pet Owner Should Know

Almost every pet owner has returned home to discover that their beloved pooch seems rather uncomfortable in his or her skin.  One of the more common skin problems in dogs is the ‘hot spot.’ What exactly is a ‘hot spot’ and how does it happen? It seems like one moment the dog’s skin is fine and the next, there is an area of hairless, oozing, itchy skin. 

“Hot spots’ are medically called pyotraumatic dermatitis. Further classifications can refer to how deep into the skin the inflammation and/or infection reaches. These areas are typically one or more spots on the dog’s skin that are hairless, moist or weeping, and sometimes bloody, but turn dry and scabby when they begin to heal. These areas are very itchy and even painful, which stimulates the dog to lick and chew. This licking and chewing is a vicious cycle which produces more trauma to the skin and infection caused by bacteria. Golden retrievers are especially prone to developing hot spots on their neck and under their ear on the face. These areas are often covered with hair and need clipping with more intensive care.

There are many causes that need to be investigated by your veterinarian before treatment and prevention measures can begin.  Causes may include:

• Flea allergy, flea infestation
• Mites, such as sarcoptes or demodex
• Food allergy
• ‘Environmental’ allergy (pollen, mold, etc.), atopic dermatitis
• Irritation, such as from groomer’s clipper blades

Once an underlying cause is identified, treatment and preventative measures need to be taken. Your veterinarian may recommend a pain medication and antibiotics if the hot spot is severe enough. Some veterinarians will recommend a topical treatment as well.  Elizabethan collars (E-collars, or the “lamp shade collar”) are very helpful in that they prevent the dog from licking and chewing the area.  If your dog has a hot spot on the shoulder area, covering it by putting a small t-shirt or infant ‘onesie’ over it may be necessary to prevent further trauma.

If your dog develops a hot spot at home and you can’t make it to the vet quickly, there are certain steps you can take to keep your dog feeling comfortable. Keep in mind that some smaller hot spots can be treated successfully at home by following these basic ‘first aid’ tips:

• If you have an E-collar handy, have your dog wear it until you see the vet
• Cover the area by putting a t-shirt or infant ‘onesie’ (usually fits toy breeds) on your dog to help prevent further licking and chewing
• Don’t use human over-the-counter topical treatments
• Many of these ointments contain zinc oxide, which can be toxic to dogs if ingested
• Since dogs will often lick off ointments when they are applied, it is important to select a non-toxic pet ointment.

It’s a good idea to have a first aid kit on hand in case of an emergency, minor cut or hot spot. A few good things to have in your kit include sterile gauze, a non-toxic pet skin ointment or stick, and petroleum jelly. Be sure to tune in next week as I discuss making your own First Aid Kit at home. Hopefully you'll never have to use it, but having the right supplies on hand will help tremendously in the event of a painful and irritating hot spot!

Does your dog suffer from hot spots? Share how you help your pet in the comments section below. We’d love to hear how you’re helping your pets live a healthier, more comfortable life. 

Sea Buckthorn Powder: Why We Don't Use It!

When something seems too good to be true, watch out because it usually is. This can be said for a variety of things in life but is especially true in the world of food and nutritional supplements. It seems that almost daily we hear about food fraud and poor quality or contaminated ingredients in our food chain. Some products are more ‘pure’ than others and some are simply gimmicks.  It is time to set the record straight about sea buckthorn products.

The health benefits of sea buckthorn have been known for thousands of years. The fruit, leaves and stems contain a number of healthy compounds, not limited to flavonoids, antioxidants, minerals and several omega fatty acids. Its boom in popularity as a health supplement has been followed by a similar boom in different types of products: pet supplements, cosmetics, fruit juice, powders, purees and oils.   It seems that there is a lot of conflicting information on the internet about using powders vs. oils, so let’s take a look:

Sea buckthorn oil

The majority of the oil found in the sea buckthorn plant is in fact in the berries, or fruit.  It can be extracted by a variety of different ways, one of the best being CO2 supercritical extraction. This is a low-temperature process that works similarly to an oversized espresso machine.  The raw, pureed sea buckthorn berry and/or seed is put into the machine and the oil fraction is extracted under high pressure CO2.  The benefit of any sea buckthorn oil, from either seed or pulp origin, is that this oil comes with a plethora of fat-soluble compounds.  Omega-3, 6, 7 and 9, vitamin A, vitamin E, amino acids, and flavonoids are just a few of these beneficial compounds that ‘hitch a ride’ with the oil and into your product.

Sea buckthorn powder

Sea buckthorn powder is made by dehydrating either sea buckthorn puree or juice. Sometimes the powder is made from the by-product of the oil-extracting process.  It can be difficult to find a sea buckthorn powder with a complete list of ingredients. Some ingredients in the powder may include added sugars such as maltodextrin. Sea buckthorn is naturally a bitter fruit and sweeteners are often added to the powder to improve palatability. While the final product can be high in Vitamin C, the oil fraction is greatly diminished in these powders, leaving the omega fatty acid nutrients almost non-existent; which is where some of the biggest health benefits truly lie.  

One of your best options is sea buckthorn oil. Be sure to select a pure oil and not a ‘purified’ oil – as there is a difference. We discussed these important differences in our previous article. Sea buckthorn oil has no additives or sweeteners and packs the best nutritional punch with high, concentrated amounts of omegas 3, 6, 9 and the elusive omega 7. Another option is to try a liquid pulp form. Pureed sea buckthorn fruit not only retains the important omegas, it provides full body nutrition with 190+ bio-active compounds. 

This is a key difference between sea buckthorn pulp and its oils. The latter contains the fat-soluble nutrients while the pulp contains the water-soluble nutrients. You can't remove the water-solubles and keep the nutrients it carries. CONSUMERS BE CAUTIOUS: Any claims stating that sea buckthorn oil houses this full array of 190 nutrients is false. This can only be found when the entire  sea buckthorn berry is incorporated. Be wary of this misleading marketing tactic. 

Most of all- be an educated consumer

When selecting a sea buckthorn product, make sure that sea buckthorn puree or oil is high on the ingredients list – listed first or possibly second is best. If there are no ingredients listed ask the company for more information before making a purchase. 

My advice: If you are going to make an investment in your pet’s health, purchase what is pure and closest to nature. You will see an improvement in their health faster than if you used an inferior or heavily processed product.